Closed-cell foam insulation in Fort Worth TX - an attic sealed against air and moisture

Most calls I get start with a hot upstairs, a room over the garage that never feels right, or a power bill that keeps going up. If the old insulation up there is wet or full of droppings, insulation removal comes first, because new foam won't fix a problem it's sprayed next to. The price moves with how much roof deck or rim joist we're covering, how thick the foam needs to be, how easy the attic is to work in and what has to be repaired beforehand. The schedule turns on that prep and on which days your household can be away. You get your own number at the estimate. We're based in Fort Worth and work in many of the cities around it.

I start by going through your attic for roof leaks, stained or wet wood, gaps around pipes and the hatch, and where the ductwork runs, because foam sprayed over a leak or damp wood just hides the problem. If the roof needs work, I'll tell you to get that fixed first. Closed-cell costs more than open-cell, so I walk you through where its moisture control is worth paying for, like the roof deck or the rim joists, and where it isn't. We also go over how the attic will stay dry once it's sealed, so you know what keeps it that way. On install day our crew covers anything that's staying in the attic, sprays the foam to the thickness we agreed on, trims it where it needs to be clean and cleans up before you come home.

Closed-cell isn't the answer for every surface. In plenty of walls and attics, open-cell foam insulation handles the heat for less money, and I'll say so when that's your case. We bring the same prep-first approach to commercial insulation for property managers and business owners.

A lot of the houses we see around Fort Worth have the air handler and ductwork up in the attic, and that's where closed-cell under the roof deck earns its price. Department of Energy building guidance says moving the insulation and air sealing to the underside of the roof deck has real advantages when the heating and cooling system lives up there, because the equipment ends up inside the cooled part of the house. The same guidance says any fuel-burning appliance in an attic sealed with foam, like a gas furnace or water heater, should be a direct-vent sealed-combustion type, one that takes its air from outside and vents back outdoors. I check what's in your attic before we price the job, so anything that doesn't fit gets sorted out before foam goes on.

Rim joists are the other place we use it most, on two-story houses and older homes with a crawl space, where those edge boards let outside air into the house. Closed-cell seals and insulates them in one step, and it needs less thickness than open-cell to stop air there. We see the same mix of houses on jobs in Haltom City and Mansfield.